Liliums prefer a rich soil that is well-drained in a sunny to partial shady spot. They prefer their roots in part-shade and their heads in the sun so planting the bulbs between low growing shrubs can work well, where they can also remain undisturbed.
Dead head lilies once the flowers have faded, so that the plant can put its energies into producing a floriferous bulb for the next season.
Please Note - Pollen from lilies can be fatal to cats if they lick pollen from their coats, so it may be worth removing the stamens if you are bringing them indoors to display in vases and /or keeping the plants at a height where cats cannot rub against the flowers.
Pests - The Lily Beetle - Easy to spot in the spring and summer months lily beetles are about 1cm in length, bright red in colour with black legs. If you see any, then squish them immediately as they and their larvae will quickly munch on both the leaves and flowers given half a chance. Check the undersides of leaves as the larvae are tiny reddish-brown grub, but more noticeable is the black excrement they hide under.
Planting lilium bulbs into the garden
If you are planting lilium bulbs straight into the garden border, dig a large hole or trench incorporating plenty of organic matter such as well-rotted manure and place the bulbs onto sharp sand or add coarse grit to aid drainage, cover and mulch on top of the soil with more organic matter. Plant the bulbs 15-20 cms deep (three times their depth) and 15 cms apart to allow strong stem roots to form underground.
Stake the lilies at the time of planting so as not to damage the bulbs and tie in the stems with a soft twine as they grow throughout the season.
As lilies come into flower make sure they have a regular feed of high potassium liquid fertiliser every two weeks. You could use tomato fertiliser if you prefer as this contains all the nutrients they require. Continue to feed fortnightly until the leaves turn yellow in the autumn. Leave the foliage to die back naturally before removing.